Need a small, lightweight jack < 3.5" min height and a cordless impact [Archive] (2024)

MX-5 Miata Forum > Shifting Gears > Tool Talk > Need a small, lightweight jack < 3.5" min height and a cordless impact

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Stephanie

25th November 2005, 19:00

I'm looking for just what the threat title states--a floor jack that's around 24" long (w/o handle), relatively light weight, and can fit under the miata (approx 3.5" ride height). I've looked at some in the stores but it seems that either the saddle is too high or the arm is too high. Any specific jacks or places that I should look? A friend picked one up at Walmart but when we went to get one they were gone.

As for the cordless impact, it needs enough torque from 'stopped' to break lugs loose. We've looked at some around $100 but they didn't have enough torque to loosen lugnuts, and if you have to break them loose with a torque wrench what's the point? I've seen some for around $300 but would like to know if there's a more reasonably priced one.

Thanks for the help, I'm desperately searching for Christmas gifts.

ooby_dooby

25th November 2005, 19:19

Here's your jack.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=91039

BRB looking for the impact. Not confident!

ooby_dooby

25th November 2005, 19:23

I wouldn't think a cordless impact wrench is worth the powder to blow it to hell, but here are several.

http://order.harborfreight.com/EasyAsk/harborfreight/results.jsp

qjohn

28th November 2005, 22:26

Search for "24V 1/2 Cordless Impact" on ebay. Most of them should loosen lug nuts that haven't been overtorqued.

JQ

GaryS

29th November 2005, 09:46

As for the cordless impact, it needs enough torque from 'stopped' to break lugs loose. We've looked at some around $100 but they didn't have enough torque to loosen lugnuts, and if you have to break them loose with a torque wrench what's the point? I've seen some for around $300 but would like to know if there's a more reasonably priced one.

Here (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=46701) is the one I have. Watch the sales as it is often sold for less.

TimMullen

29th November 2005, 12:22

I guess I don't understand...

Is it really that hard to use a socket and breaker bar to loosen the lug nuts, and then spin the lugs off by hand? So it takes a minute per wheel instead of 20 seconds. It that really worth carrying around a $100 - $150 electric impact for the couple of minutes that you will save?

Yea, I use my air powered impact wrench at home, but that's because I can jack up the car and then remove the lugs/wheels - the speed doesn't really make that much of a difference.

richashley

29th November 2005, 12:58

A friend's Spec Miata team (1 to 3 cars depending on the event) used one of the 19.2v Harbor Freight impacts all year and was pleased with it. No problems and they used it both at the track and in the garage.

It was a real time saver, especially when we were doing more than one car, and much more convenient than dragging the air hose around. It won't loosen the rusted bolts that an air tool will break loose, but that's not usually an issue with competition cars.

It's also a big help to us old guys; even if we can still use a breaker bar.

bigdude

29th November 2005, 13:40

and if you have to break them loose with a torque wrench what's the point?

Please don't use your torque wrench to loosen a lug! Can/will screw up calibration! I imagine you meant ratchet/breaker/cheater, but if anyone else was thinking about using their expensive torque wrench to remove lugs, don't do it!

GaryS

29th November 2005, 16:26

I guess I don't understand...

Is it really that hard to use a socket and breaker bar to loosen the lug nuts, and then spin the lugs off by hand? So it takes a minute per wheel instead of 20 seconds. It that really worth carrying around a $100 - $150 electric impact for the couple of minutes that you will save?

Yep. Worth every penny. Especially on a hot Kansas parking lot in July.:D

(I even carry a second cordless (66 ft lb) to put the wheels on)

RADOne

29th November 2005, 16:52

Please don't use your torque wrench to loosen a lug! Can/will screw up calibration! I imagine you meant ratchet/breaker/cheater, but if anyone else was thinking about using their expensive torque wrench to remove lugs, don't do it!

Can you explain why that is? And why every torque wrench I've used can take readings both clockwise and counterclockwise? Most of them even have a fully reversable ratching head.

I used to hear the same thing. But I've never heard a logical reason that wasn't disputed.

Braineack

29th November 2005, 22:50

I guess I don't understand...

Is it really that hard to use a socket and breaker bar to loosen the lug nuts, and then spin the lugs off by hand? So it takes a minute per wheel instead of 20 seconds. It that really worth carrying around a $100 - $150 electric impact for the couple of minutes that you will save?

Yea, I use my air powered impact wrench at home, but that's because I can jack up the car and then remove the lugs/wheels - the speed doesn't really make that much of a difference.

Changing tires after a long track day or even an autox is not fun, especially when you got a long drive ahead. I've always had a corded impact wrench so I just bought a power invertor. I went a whole autox season using a tire iron and I'd never go back!

bigdude

30th November 2005, 10:21

Unfortunately, I don't know the specific technical reason why you don't want to use a torque wrench to break lugs loose. However, I do know why most of them will ratchet in both directions. Some cars (ok, mostly older, crappy Mopars, but there have to be others) have reverse-threaded lugs on the left side of the car. Theory being, the rotation of the wheel would keep them tight. Now, that made sense on British cars (wow, something that made sense on British cars !?!) and others with a single knockoff spinner on the wheel, but on a 4-5 lug wheel, not so much. But back to the original question, some bolts/nuts are reverse threaded, and need to be torqued thusly.

TimMullen

30th November 2005, 12:48

Unfortunately, I don't know the specific technical reason why you don't want to use a torque wrench to break lugs loose. However, I do know why most of them will ratchet in both directions. <...> some bolts/nuts are reverse threaded, and need to be torqued thusly.Yep, you sometimes need to torque left hand threaded bolts.

The main reason that you shouldn't use a torque wrench to loosen bolts is that it will almost always require more torque to loosen a blot than to tighten it. If you set you wrench to 85 ft-lbs, and then loosen the bolt, it may require 100 ft-lbs to get it moving, in which case you have applied force over what you have set the wrench for - so instead of using the wrench as intended, you have "clicked" it past it's setting and onto the stops. You would risk bending/damaging/harming the internal parts of the wrench, or at the very least degrading it's accuracy.

Bottom line is that a torque wrench should be considered a precision tool for tightening bolts. A breaker bar that can be abused is for use by the gorilla trying to loosen stubborn bolts. You don't use a micrometer to measure a 2x4, you should use the proper tool for the job...

mrpresident

30th November 2005, 14:59

Some cars (ok, mostly older, crappy Mopars, but there have to be others) have reverse-threaded lugs on the left side of the car.

My '55 Willys Jeep had this feature too. It's pretty hard to find replacement nuts for LH threads.

Stephanie

2nd December 2005, 21:46

Thanks for the suggestions and discussion (and sorry I haven't checked the thread in a week). My husband's been thinking about a cordless impact just for wheel changes for a while just to save some time (we have a 2-2.5hr drive from autocross location to home, so anything that saves a few minutes here and there is a good thing). I don't trust impact wrench settings on torquing so that will still be done with a torque wrench. I hate that I'm not around to help my husband change wheels in the mornings since I have an early work assignment, but the least I can do is make his job easier and at least start swapping wheels and packing up the trailer at the end of the event.

I've decided to go with a cheap HF impact and the jack suggested in this thread (another miata owner recommended the same one), if I have exceptionally good/bad experiences I'll post them here.

LeGreatOne

2nd December 2005, 22:16

You can get a great deal on a jack and jack stands at SEARS.
Re: Cordless impact wrench, if the tool actually has an air tank attached to it it may be okay. Beware the electric impact wrenchs... I was given an electric impact gun as a gift and the thing is best used as a paper weight.
A long handled breaker bar provides plenty of impact for lugnut removal.

Savington

4th December 2005, 21:16

I use a 12v Makita cordless impact for my kart lug nuts (M8). I'm sure a 19.2v would do the job for lug nuts, although the best thing is always a torque wrench.

moxnix

7th December 2005, 12:10

I have the HF jack and HF impact wrench and I used them at about 60 AutoX events this year and they are still holding up fine.

Ski-Patroller

7th December 2005, 15:59

Costco has a pretty good deal on a Jack, Stands and Creeper package for $100. It is a single stage aluminum jack and the stands are the aluminum ones with pins. Very attractive, but I don't think as functional as my 2 spd jack and racheting steel stands.

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Need a small, lightweight jack < 3.5" min height and a cordless impact [Archive] (2024)

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